This shock has none of the usual MM, LM etc. markings on the can, so I've got no idea of what the tune may be. I've tested this shock on my Anthem X in the below configuration and it feels severely overdamped both in the rebound and high-speed compression circuits. Then Anthem works well with a LM tune (or 2015 MM tune with rapid recovery) , so I'd guess that this shock is at least a MH tune (and possibly HH tune).
|Inside diameter||Outside diameter||Thickness||Quantity|
|Shim||6mm||13mm||0.1mm||2||These shims form the rebound stack.|
|Shim||6mm||17mm||0.15mm||1||These shims form the high speed compresson stack. They fit within a recess on the piston and block the smaller set of compression ports. These ports are exposed even when the lockout is on and the lockout hat is covering the larger compression ports.|
|Shim||6mm||10mm||0.2mm||1||This shims form the pivot for the high speed comp stack and also space the low speed shims away from the pocket in the comp piston face. If these shim stack height here adds up to more than the depth of the high speed comp stack pocket then the low speed shims will not seal against the outer piston face.|
|Shim||6mm||22mm||0.3mm||1||Low speed compression stack.|
In this picture you can see how critical it is to get the total height of the LSC shims plus pivot shims right otherwise there may be too much preload on the LSC shims (resulting in too much platform) or too little preload (resulting in a lack of sealing between the largest LSC shim and the piston face).
Rebound side of piston. Rebound shims fit down inside recess.
XX remote leaking at shock
Fixing a remote that is leaking at the rebound adjuster on the shock is a fairly straight-forward fix:
- depressurize main air chamber;
- remove IFP fill port cover and depressurize IFP;
- Note: do not cycle the shock through its stroke;
- remove grub screw closest to eyelet on the rebound adjuster side - take care to remove small spring and ball bearing - this is the mechanism that gives the rebound adjuster its "clicks";
- remove grub screw closest to rebound adjuster - this one holds the rebound adjuster and lockout in place;
- withdraw rebound adjuster/lockout mechanism from the shock;
- replace the three o-rings with new ones.
Basically the reverse of disassembly but take care that the rebound rod has not extended too far toward the eyelet. Look into the rebound/lockout bore on the shock and you will see two rods. The thin rod is for the lockout, and the larger (lower) rod is for rebound adjustment. If necessary, insert something into the bore and depress the rebound adjuster rod so its only protruding about 1mm in to the bore.
Also, when you insert the rebound/lockout mechanism, make sure the rebound adjuster is properly positioned. If you look on the back, you will see the cam that operates the rod. Make sure the relieved part of the cam is positioned so it will engage the rebound control rod when inserted.
The full service kit for the Monarch XX isn't cheap. I got mine for a bit under $40 off Amazon.
This shock in the MM tune felt severely over-damped on my Anthem X.
Revalve attempt 1
Rebound: only two shims in MM tune, so remove one shim to speed up the rebound.
Compression: relocated one of the 10x0.1mm shims onto the piston face to reduce the preload on the low speed stack. Removed the 18x0.1mm from the compression stack and added a 13x0.1mm shim under the compression stack to reduce preload on high speed stack. These mods resulted in the lockout not working properly, but the shock still felt wooden and lifeless to ride.
Revalve attempt 2
Will try restoring the low speed stack to get the lockout working again, and then will probably need to replace that monster 22x0.3mm shim with some 22x0.1 or 22x0.15 shims to get rid of this wooden feel.